American Masala: Review

AMERICAN MASALA

By

Suvir

With Raquel Pelzel

Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers

The title “American Masala” may sound oxymoronic, for one does not associate American food with spice. But Suvir Saran, in his brilliant and inspiring book, “American Masala”, has nullified the concept that masala cannot be part of American cuisine. In his unique recipes, ranging from tingling sauces and chutneys through mouth-watering desserts, he has integrated American classics with the bouquet of flavors represented by Indian spices, providing just the ticket for some adventurous meal-times in any kitchen.

Saran, originally from Delhi, has been an American resident for almost twenty years. He is co-executive chef at the restaurant, Devi, which offers him the perfect setting for adding a new twist to familiar dishes.

“Masala” is a catch-all Indian word for spices; you could have masala ‘chai’ or tea or have masala chicken. What makes each dish unique is the combination of spices. But, beyond being spices used in cooking, masala is also, as he says, “the spice of life, the excitement and vibrancy that come from stimulating conversation and a house full of friends and family.”

Indian masalas have immigrated to other countries over time, absorbing local flavors and contributing to local foods in the process, adding yet another layer to the already rich and flamboyant taste of Indian spices. The resulting flavors are as exotic and as varied as the countless Indian dishes themselves.

Using basic ingredients that can be found in any Indian kitchen, such as cumin seed, garam masala, turmeric, mustard seeds, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, curry leaves, fenugreek, etc., Saran suggests innovative and interesting ways to enrich basic American dishes. Adding cumin, coriander and tamarind along with garam masala to a meatloaf, for instance, gives it a flavor you would never associate with a meatloaf. Or again, adding just honey, cumin seed and garam masala to chicken wings gives them a new zesty taste, truly “pack(ing) in spices, heat and sweetness.” Yet again, he transforms basic macaroni and cheese into a near gourmet dish with the addition of Dijon mustard and pepper flakes.

Joy, truly, springs from every recipe. Here is obviously someone who loves to experiment with flavor, who is not scared to venture into bold techniques when playing with spices – adding a pinch of this and a dash of that to bring out the best in any dish. He is like an artist who, working on a broad canvas, splashes color with brilliant mastery to create vivid and striking art.

Saran draws from many flavors of the world to enrich his recipes – Middle Eastern, Mexican, Italian, American and, of course, Indian. Simple touches like adding black pepper to a fruit cobbler or saffron to a leg of leg transform the essence of the dishes. Not restricting himself to any one type of food, he creates a diversity which represents the diversity one faces in any metropolitan city like New York. For food, like culture, is an ever-changing fact of life and becomes richer for easily adapting to other tastes and palates.

Even for the seasoned cook, particularly the seasoned Indian cook, there are variations offered for traditional items, such as okra used to make a salad or eggplants cooked with tamarind to create a scintillating taste with Abha aunty’s recipe for sweet-and-sour eggplant.

I enjoyed the fact that Saran provides some background on each of his 125 recipes; this little touch brings the master chef into your kitchen and you really get a sense of him being there chatting with you as you cook any one of his recipes. This book is truly an invitation to roll up your sleeves and to have a lot of fun while you cook up a storm! Truly, a must in every kitchen!

~Harshi Gill

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